Pune, September 2, 2023: In an extraordinary feat, members of the Giripremi mountaineering club from Pune, in collaboration with mountaineers from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering (NIM), Uttarkashi, have etched their names in history by becoming the first Indian team to successfully ascend Mount Meru. This towering Himalayan peak, standing at a formidable 6,660 meters, is renowned as one of the most arduous mountains to conquer.
The remarkable achievement unfolded as Giripremi’s Ganesh More, Vivek Shivade, Varun Bhagwat, along with Mingma Sherpa, Vinod Gusain (senior instructor, NIM, Uttarkashi), and their colleagues Bihari Rana and Ajit Rawat, proudly hoisted the Indian tricolor atop Mount Meru’s summit at approximately 8 am on September 2, 2023.
This historic ascent not only marks India’s first successful expedition to the South face of Mount Meru but also signifies the world’s first victorious expedition to Mount Meru’s West Face. Joining the Giripremi team on this challenging endeavor were Dawa Sherpa and Furtensing Sherpa, further fortifying the spirit of this audacious achievement. Lakpa Sherpa, another critical member of the team, lent his support by climbing up to Camp 1.
Guiding and leading this historic expedition was Umesh Zirpe, a seasoned mountaineer hailing from Pune. The Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in Uttarkashi provided valuable assistance and support to Giripremi throughout their quest.
In May, the Giripremi team had made their initial attempt on Mount Meru’s West Face. Regrettably, they had to turn back merely 200 meters from the summit due to severe weather conditions. From August 25, the team established their base camp at an altitude of 4,800 meters, situated on the Kirti Bamak glacier. The Himalayas experienced an unusual spell of heavy rainfall during this time, creating concerns about the expedition’s feasibility. Fortunately, weather conditions improved, allowing the team to concentrate on the climb and confront the formidable challenges that lay ahead.
After completing acclimatization climbs, the team initiated their summit bid on the evening of September 1 from Camp 1, located at 5,500 meters. The route to the summit presented daunting obstacles, with nearly 90-degree inclines comprised of rocks, solid ice, and powdery snow. The team exhibited relentless determination, showcasing exemplary skills in rock and ice climbing to reach Mount Meru’s pinnacle. This triumphant summit conquers one of the most legendary and challenging peaks in the world of mountaineering.
The accomplished team included Ganesh More, a summiteer of Mt. Everest and Mt. Chyo Oyu; Vivek Shivade, who has summited Mt. Kanchenjunga, Mt. Ama Dablam, and Mt. Manda; Varun Bhagwat, a young mountaineer and summiteer of Mt. Bhrigu Parvat; along with Mingma Sherpa, an esteemed mountaineer with numerous ascents of eight-thousanders to his name. Additionally, Vinod Gusain, a senior instructor at the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, played a pivotal role in this historic achievement.
Mount Meru has always been renowned as a more challenging climb than even Mt. Everest. While numerous mountaineers have undertaken expeditions to Mount Meru, only a select few have successfully reached its summit, and none among them were Indian until now.
