Nestled amidst the serene landscapes of Lonavala in Pune, the Bhaja Caves stand as a testament to the rich heritage of ancient Buddhist culture and art in the Western Ghats of Maharashtra. These remarkable rock-cut caves, numbering 22 in total, are perched on a hill near the Bhaja village, offering a captivating journey into history. Dating back to the Hinayana phase, these caves span from the 3rd century BC to the 2nd century AD, with some remaining in use until the 5th or 6th century AD, as evidenced by painted Buddha images in the chaitya (prayer hall).
Situated approximately 120 meters above the surrounding plains, the Bhaja Caves are a masterpiece of ancient architecture and spirituality, gazing westward towards the horizon. The nearby Indrayani River meanders through the valley, underscoring the historical significance of the region, marked by the presence of two Maratha forts, Lohagadh and Visapur, on adjacent hilltops.
Unveiling the Excavations and Architecture:
The Bhaja Caves are characterized by three main structures: chaityagrihas (prayer halls), viharas (monasteries), and podhis (dwellings). Among these, the chaityagriha is particularly noteworthy. It is considered one of the earliest of its kind and closely mimics a wooden prototype. This grand hall spans 17.08 meters in length and 8.13 meters in width, with a distinctive layout. The central nave is flanked by side aisles, defined by 27 pillars arranged in two straight rows that converge in a semicircular form at the rear. Remarkably, the nave’s ceiling boasts an elegant vaulted design, with original wooden beams that have stood the test of time.
At the rear of the chaityagriha lies a stupa, measuring 3.45 meters in diameter, intended for worship. This stupa showcases a prominent hemispherical dome atop a cylindrical drum, crowned with a distinctive railing pattern known as the harmika.
Exploring Cave 18:
Cave 18, one of the notable monasteries within the Bhaja Cave complex, boasts a rectangular hall with a front verandah supported by sturdy pillars. Inside the hall, two cells occupy the back and right sides, while a bench lines the left side. In contrast to the round pillars observed in the chaitya hall, these pillars feature square bases and tops with an octagonal shape in the middle. The hall is accessible via two doors from the verandah, each guarded by lavishly decorated “dvarapalas.”
The verandah of Cave 18 holds two remarkable sculptural reliefs. One portrays a regal figure riding a chariot drawn by four horses, triumphing over a demon-like entity—an interpretation that some link to the Sun god Surya. Adjacent to this, another relief depicts an individual riding an elephant, grasping an ankusa (a bullhook), while attended by banner and spear-bearing companions. This enigmatic figure is often identified as Indra.
Diverse Monastic Complex:
Beyond Cave 18, the Bhaja Cave group encompasses various simpler monasteries, featuring basic halls with verandahs. Some galleries include cells on one, two, or three sides. Among the intriguing structures are those with circular cells housing a stupa within. An exceptional excavation within the group is identified as a cemetery, boasting fourteen rock-cut stupas, some inscribed with the names of sthaviras (Buddhist elders).
Visitor Information:
For those eager to explore the Bhaja Caves, admission fees vary. Indian citizens, SAARC visitors, and BIMSTEC visitors are charged INR 25 per person, while other international visitors are charged INR 300 per person. Children up to the age of 15 enjoy free entry.
How to Reach:
Lonavala is conveniently accessible by road from major cities like Mumbai and Pune. Once in Lonavala, visitors can easily reach the Bhaja Caves, located approximately 12-15 kilometers from the hill station, by hiring a taxi or an auto-rickshaw.
A journey to the Bhaja Caves is a captivating experience, allowing travelers to connect with the ancient echoes of Buddhism in a stunning natural setting amidst the Western Ghats.
